An Estheticians Guide to Home Microneedling + Derma Rollers

Microneedling has received a lot of buzz in the skincare world (?industry) in the last few years, and rightly so! If you are curious about microneedling and how it can help your skin, including some dos and don’ts when buying and using the right device, this guide is for you.

First thing’s first: microneedling is typically performed using a microneedling pen by a professional medical aesthetician or Dermatologist or with a derma roller that you can use at home. A derma roller is a handheld tool with tiny little needles on a drum-like roller. The needles create micro-injuries that stimulate blood flow and new collagen production.  This subsequently encourages skin renewal, enhanced penetration of product actives, and improves wrinkles and acne scars. 

Microneedling At Home

Does it have to be painful to work?

No. You may have some mild discomfort, depending on how sensitive your skin is, but it shouldn’t be painful. The longer the needle, the more temporary discomfort you may experience.

Will there be blood?

No. The needles are very small and the rolling is very light; the at-home tools for microneedling should not create wounds with blood. If you see blood, you are likely too aggressive in your approach or your needles are too long for the area being treated.  It is important to avoid the eye area for this reason. Professionals have tools that are stronger, deeper, and may cause wounds for deeper skin issues like scarring and deep pigmentation. 

Is it true that the longer the needle, the better?

No. The derma roller lengths for the face should never be greater than 1.0mm. In fact, the 0.25mm, 0.5mm and 0.75mm are typically recommended for at-home use on the face. The thinner the skin area, the shorter the needle needs to be.

Will I see results overnight?

No. Micro-needling is a process where patience is essential. It takes 3-6 months for new collagen to form and the best results are noticed.  Continuous use is needed for results. There are no quick fixes when it comes to our skin as the best treatments support the health and natural healing of the skin.

Can I use a derma roller daily?

This is not recommended and may actually be harmful. The needle length will determine how often you use your derma roller. The smaller the needle, the more often it can be used. 0.25mm may be used every other day on the skin, whereas a 1.0mm may only be used every other week. It all depends on your skin sensitivity and how quickly your skin recovers.  There is a fine line between encouraging new collagen production and causing scarring. More isn’t always better.

Will skin be red after use?

Possibly. Skin will often turn pink immediately following use, but prolonged redness and skin irritation is not normal and you should stop using your derma roller if this occurs.

The more rolling the better, right?

Wrong. Over rolling is dangerous and can cause inflammation and even scarring. Roll over an area 2-3 times maximum and move onto another section of the face.

Can I share my derma roller with a friend?

No. Never. Nope.

The Basics of Using a Derma Roller

• The pressure used to roll the derma roller should only be enough to glide it over your skin.
• Always apply to clean skin.
• Follow use with a serum. Be aware some serums may sting or tingle after rolling because you have exposed the skin to enhance delivery of the active ingredients in the serum. Definitely be mindful of the products you are using immediately following a treatment.  Avoid products with alcohol and harmful chemicals.
• Clean your derma roller after each and every use by dipping it in rubbing alcohol. Don’t leave a derma roller out in a bathroom where it can be susceptible to moisture and bacteria; a covered container is preferred.
• Use good quality products. The derma roller will only work as well as the skincare products you are using, be sure to invest in good quality serums and oils to reap the most benefits.
• And don’t buy the cheapest derma roller you can find either–many are poor quality and could injure the skin. Stacked Skincare and ORA rollers are both reputable and affordable brands.